Which takes me to an offshoot. Ireland is a park in my mind. Even the wildest places are inhabited and used, and modified for human needs. It's nothing like wilderness in the US. In some ways I like this sense of continuous inhabitation, the sense that every spot has been loved at some point. And in others I think I prefer the wilderness and wildness of much of the US land.
Back to Derry. Or Londonderry as it was renamed when it was granted to the city of London in the 1600s to rebuild. It's a sweet little city. The second largest in Northern Ireland and the only one to have its city walls survive intact (albeit with modifications--two more gates and more ways on and off them for pedestrians). The city wall walk is lovely. The murals in the Bogside, which are cousins to those in Belfast, are more interesting and artistic than the ones in Belfast. I didn't do a tour and I wish I had. The town has a more arts oriented feel and seems quite cosmopolitan. There is a craft village with several artist cooperative stores--and quite good work. I could definitely consider moving there. I stayed in a nice B&B which was only a few minutes from city center by foot--the owners were very kind and even let me do laundry!
This morning I took off for Donegal (pronounced don ne gal) which is supposed to be one of the most beautiful areas in Ireland. It is gorgeous. Mountains and sea. And a lot of people for somewhere that's supposed to be so rural. Rural in the sense that it isn't a city but not rural like the west!
The Glenevin park was a nice detour to see a waterfall in a Glen.
The Gap of Mamore was interesting. Basically a one lane road over the Urris mountains, it has a fun history. Read:
I liked the idea of a republic based on liquor! The well is obviously much used and venerated as it had several statues with offerings. There was also a lot of trash. I noticed people were leaving offerings; I decided mine would be to clean up all the trash in the vicinity. It's interesting that I can't find anything about St Egney except that he may have been a Druid who saw the Christian faith coming. St Colmcille (Columb) was another very busy Saint who founded at least a couple of monasteries all in the northwest and in Scotland on Iona. Local lore says he was born in Donegal.
Panorama of the gap and the well:
I stopped at the Carndonagh cross this afternoon and was charmed by the simple carving on it and the imagery of Jesus with his arms spread in benediction or welcome (instead of crucified). There were two pillars next to it with carvings as well--one of a harpist and one of another clergyman with symbols of office. And in the graveyard, the lovely marigold stone with a flower like design carved on it. The church was new, but incorporated a 15th century door lintel and had a 12th century one on display, both found on site. The graveyard is still in use but had the sense of some very old graves mixed in. Lovely. I think this site is associated with Colmcille as well
Now I'm up at the north end of the peninsula. I'm staying the night in a pub with good music which I enjoyed earlier. Lots of people out enjoying St Pats day. I was stunned at how many places were closed--basically all shops and many restaurants that weren't pubs. Schools maybe too? Families and cyclers were out everywhere enjoying the sun and the day which I can completely get behind.
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