3/21

In spite of my best intentions I did not manage to make it out if Donegal today. The Glencolmcille peninsula proved to be quite fantastically beautiful and interesting. I heard Gaelic spoken! Lovely and musical. The peninsula is all mountains and ocean, quite rugged and remote. It's getting more tourists now because of the Wild Atlantic Way which is a new scenic route that runs the length of the western side. 

There's a fantastic folk museum in Glencolmcille. What I especially loved about it was that it focused on the common people's experience and living circumstances. There were 5 cottages from different time periods and that belonged to different types of people (farmers, fishermen) along with a wealth of implements, mostly donated from the community but in quite good shape. They have developed some good material about it as well. Living circumstances were quite harsh--although the cottage walls were thick I doubt they were very warm. All were thatched in the traditional way. Life was sparse--they had very little. And yet it seems it was sufficient because there has been life on that peninsula for millennia--it has numerous archaeological finds and cairns and so on dating back to the Bronze Age. Lovely spot with beautiful beaches (too bad it was cold!). Next time I come I will try to stay awhile. Although the peninsula does lack accommodation and restaurants. 

Interesting thought--we talk about food deserts in the US.  Most of Ireland could be considered a food desert--I can't count how many villages I've been thru with only a pub. Not that it's far to somewhere else, but usually not walking distance either. Even slightly larger towns won't have much. 

Some other musings:

I'm losing track of right from left. I don't think I realized how much I depended on driving and cars for that. Now I have to think about my writing hand. It's an interesting disorientation. 

Religion: Ireland has a zillion churches, both Catholic and Anglican.  And of course an immensely rich religious history, both pagan and Christian. What's interesting is that in the republic I have seen precisely one church that might be more evangelical in nature. No religious signage. No one seems to care in the republic. However, in the north, I suddenly started seeing signs of religious activity that looks more like what you see in the US: signs with scripture, more evangelical, fellowship type worship places. And of course, in the north, everyone cares a great deal which church you belong to. 

Gravestones don't give birthdates but rather age and date of death.  And are often used for whole families like from 1800s forward. I can't tell if a lot of people are cremated and then use the same grave or what's happening. 

The whole of Ireland is quite park-like. When you think people have been living here since 9000 years BC you kinda see why. Here's s list of wilder places so far: Glenveagh park, Malin Head, the Glencolmcille area, Urris mountains. I'm guessing there will be more in Connacht. 

Music seems to mostly start very late at night (10ish) and be played in noisy, crowded pubs. Which is why I am not seeing so much of it. Mostly I'm pretty tired after a day of driving and hiking about. Plus pubs are dark so I don't particularly want to sit about in one for an hour or two after dinner waiting for music to start. Although good conversation sometimes.