Monday 18

Want to develop nerves of steel? I recommend a course in traffic in Egypt. That includes walking anywhere, being a passenger in a car, and, for the graduate course, a driver. Walking includes hazards such as broken up sidewalks, and sidewalks that change heights without warning, as well as many obstructions from trash to sleeping people. Then, crossing the streets is exciting. There are no crosswalks. People cross at any given time and in any given place, weaving between the cars which rarely stop for you. Everyone is doing this. Being in a car is also super fun. They drive anywhere and everywhere, as fast as possible, weaving in and out of lanes (which are not marked). Street lights are usually considered suggestions. There's this street, it's called the Kornishe en-Nil. It runs along the Nile from Tahrir Square on south. The bridge to my aunt's house is from there. It used to be one way, about 5 lanes. Now parts of it are two ways, without any street markings. The first time I was on it, it was a pretty freaky experience to see cars driving right at you at what seems like extremely high speed. Doing nothing at all is something I used to love to do and have kind of given up. I've had some time to do nothing at all recently and discovered that I lost something important. The floating, unengaged time is refreshing. When I say do nothing, I mean literally just sitting or lying and doing nothing at all, not even thinking. Just let thoughts float through the mind. Maybe this is a form of meditation. It is much easier to do when there is nowhere to be and no one wanting something from you. Maybe that's why I haven't done it for awhile. Galleries: Well, there are several very sweet little galleries in Zamalek. Most of them are quite tiny, but the work they show is varied in style and subject matter. Most of what I saw is very contemporary/modern/post-modern and abstract. I didn't see any landscapes...or paintings of monuments, which I found interesting. I think most of them were more about identity. Another thing I found interesting was that there were lots of female figures. I don't know why, but I took no pictures of the galleries, so I guess I'll try to remedy that in the next few days. One in particular was in an old building, with pointed arch openings, all dark wood and the mashrabiya style carving (those were the carved shutters that kept women from sight). Tonight we talked late into the night exchanging family stories. Laila and I are going to try to develop a family tree. The family is scattered, but large.

Sunday 17

Let's see...Sunday. Wow, that was a long time ago! I walked down the steps in Laila's building today. She's on the 21st floor. I walked and walked and walked. The steps are very steep, and not the cleanest, and at times lack lights. Some floors were pitch black, others had doors without handles or with locks on them. The steps ended in an office, clearly occupied, but one without a doorhandle to get out of it. So up I went again, 6 floors. My cousin was horrified--I don't think it ever occurred to her to walk down the steps. I told her I was testing out her fire escape :-) (and attempting to get something that pretended to be exercise along the way). Anyways, if there was a fire, it would be preferable to jump or just inhale smoke because you'd likely fall down the stairs anyway in the haste to get down. Two days later, my thighs--just above the knees--are still a little sore. Which makes me think it might be time to go down 10 floors or so. This evening we went to visit a friend of hers who was down because her son just moved to the States to work. The friend is Christian. While there, the TV was on with an interview with the Coptic Pope. Essentially he's the same thing as the Roman Catholic pope, but for Egypt only. And much simpler life, and trappings. It was interesting seeing this pope after all the hoopla about the Vatican. Laila's friend insists that he is not a political figure, but I also find that very hard to believe. He was apparently talking about how church and politics should be separate. This pope wears all black, with a cross on a very long cord, and an odd looking hat. So I wondered before I came how Egypt might feel. Would it feel uneasy, or menacing, or nervous, or what? It feels fine. People are going about their daily business, and trying very hard to make ends meet, since the economy is in trouble. Lack of tourism is really hurting things here. There's a lot of political conversation, and it is just that: conversation. People seem to be able to be amicable about it for the most part. There are demonstrations, but this seems to be more of an inconvenience than anything--because it blocks major streets. The violence is unprecedented for Egypt, and the people I come into contact with are disgusted and would really like things to just go back to normal so they can move on. And maybe a new government. Lots of interest in that! The people I have talked to or overheard (conversations on the streets) want to see real change in a hurry. They don't seem to necessarily process that democracies aren't precisely fast, and that most of the people still running the government have no incentive to change, nor any knowledge of how to do that. Money is always interesting in Egypt. A US dollar brings about 7 pounds, which used to be a lot of money here. It still is; a can of coke is 250 LE, but other things have gone up. I haven't done much shopping yet so more on that later. I did however notice that the usual issue of never being able to get fikra (change) is still in evidence. One pound pieces are are always hard to come by.

Saturday 16

Laila and I got up late. I was still feeling lazy. Actually I woke up early and wasted my battery then did some yoga. Once we got moving we went off to visit family I had never met before.

Laila is my first cousin once removed. For those of you who aren't clear what that means it is that she is my father's cousin--that's where the once removed comes from. The people I met were her first cousins and my second cousins (her first cousins kids) on my grandmothers side of the family. They also happened to be from her ex-husbands family (the first cousins were his brother and sister). It was interesting to meet new distant family. My father never saw them or would answer questions about them. Apparently, though, there is a rather large extended family and my uncle Ahmed (religious uncle) seems to be planning to try to effect some sort of get together this summer. I learned this by accident.

So that ate up most of the afternoon and evening. I enjoyed it although it was hard for me to keep up with what was going on all the time and nearly impossible to join in. But it improved some. It was also interesting to see different parts of Cairo. The second apartment was where her ex had grown up (now occupied by his brother). It was tiny!! And whoever the architect was...not well planned out. And 10 people lived there. The kitchen is bisected by a wall so you enter between the stove and fridge, then run into the counter which has cupboards beneath it after 3 steps and have to make a 360 degree turn to get to the sink which is behind the stove, awkwardly. And the whole thing is probably 8 ft by 5 ft wide.

We came home, ordered in dinner (pizza...), and watched 2 movies, which put us in bed by 3 am. (!) Laila lives in Zamalek which is one of the wealthier areas of Cairo. It also houses a lot of expats and embassies so it also has a wider variety of food, more trendy shops and some bars. Friday night we went to an "English" pub...neat place, way crowded and very loud and smoky. It was about half and half expat and Egyptian. It's also where most of the art galleries are and I intend to see them all!

Fish place photos

Here are a couple of photos from el Borg, the fish place, including on the the enormous birds waddling around I the courtyard.

I almost forgot!!

We went by a (peaceful) demonstration on Friday near where Sadat is buried. My uncle says this is where the "liberals" gather.Not sure what that means in Egypt other than not Muslim Brotherhood, who seem very unpopular here, as does the president. At least with those who I have talked to. There seems to be a general opinion that the US government had some say in the elections and that it was fixed to ensure a pro-Israeli government is in place.

Friday 15

Lazy day. In Egypt, the weekend is Friday and Saturday. Still very hot (like 100). I made breakfast for my uncle and I--pasterma and eggs! Pasterma is an Egyptian dried and cured beef. It is delicious in eggs. I have never eaten it any other way but it would probably be good in other dishes as well.

We went to city stars, which is monster shopping center in one of Cairo's newer areas. Lots of British stores. Everything was outrageously expensive and quite dull. The place was jammed but it looked like very few people were buying. I am guessing they were there for the air conditioning!

We then went to a famous fish restaurant called el Borg. Apparently it started in Port Said. It was a 4 story building and I think the entire thing was one restaurant although there were these confusing signs to various restaurants. Anyway, you go in and there is a fish market counter where you select the seafood you want and tell them how to prepare it. It was highly chaotic and extremely noisy without atmosphere, but my uncle had warned me that it had no atmosphere. It was also quite busy with large family groups enjoying lunch together. I let my uncle choose since all I recognized was prawns and squid. He selected 2 kinds of fish and then we found a table. From there we were offered soup, salad and drinks. Soup was yummy--a thin broth with huge chunks of fish and shrimp in it. Salads were the Arabic version--dips--hummus, baba ganoujh and something I had not had before with a sour cheese flavor and a mayo like thing with garlic. And bread. The fish was delicious! The first out was what my uncle called barbonne, deep fried whole. The bones were soft enough to eat except the spine. Then there was a larger grilled fish, also excellent. Maess was what it was called... We could not finish it all. Best seafood I have had in quite some time. I took some pictures but I think you will have to go to fb to see them.

We went to visit my aunt Zizi. Her husband has a recurring fever that is not going away. Otherwise she is doing well. They fixed up the apartment. I was happy that I could mostly follow what was being said even if I could not participate much. Her son Ahmed is coming to Egypt to see his womenfolk (wife and daughter) at the end of the month. He lives in Texas but apparently it is easier to see him in Egypt.

My uncle is going to Qatar tomorrow so I am at my cousin Laila's house. Actually, if you want to be technical, she is my first cousin once removed. I really enjoy her company and we have a lot in common. I had never been to her house before although she had invited me to stay previously. She has her fathers apartment which has been renovated with a cleaner European feel. Hers is the only apartment I have been in here with art and antiques and a significant number of books. She collects antique metal cooking equipment, and has this konifa maker...covet!!! She collects current Egyptian art...and has some really nice pieces. She has African art and travel souvenirs. Plus lots and lots of books in English, Arabic and German! The apartment feels open and airy and she used lots of strong colors. I will put some pictures of it up as well.

1st day--Thursday

I ended up sleeping all of today until dinner time. I could have gone back to sleep shortly thereafter. Turns out to have been a 95 degree day so maybe it was not so bad. Apparently Egypt is in the midst of a heat wave.

Once I got up we had dinner--salad, lentil soup with pita bread crisps and liver with onions. The onions were cooked into sweetness. And bread of course. Can't do without bread. I talked, or pretended to talk, to my aunt and cousins. I am g trying the Arabic back but I still can't manage streams of super fast talk or answer fast.

Later--I mean like 9 pm--we went out. It seemed like the whole world was out on the streets! People, mostly but not only men, everywhere. Walking, shopping, eating, talking... We went to the best juice place where I drank two big glasses of mango and one of tamer Hindi. Not quite what that is in English, but it might be tamarind. Yum yum yum! Bought my favorite nuts next door too--leib aswad. They are watermelon seeds, roasted and salted. They require dedication to enjoy--that and a lot of free time. I don't eat them much in the states as I guess I don't sit still on the same way at home. We also went to a sweet shop and bought some really good baklava. Nothing like pistachios! And round konifa. Although my aunt's homemade konifa is better. My father finally taught me to make that last winter thank heavens or I would have another reason to be annoyed with him!

We finally came back about 11 pm and went to bed later than that.

I am enjoying the different perspective of Egypt without my father. It's fun spending time with my uncle Nabil. I am curious to see what else develops without father's restrictions. At the same time I am enjoying talking about him and remembering him with my uncle and hopefully other people as well.

So I am never sure how to pack for trips like this. People tend towards dressy in Egypt but them again I am on not here to work or impress per say. Anyway, so I am lying here on the couch doing nothing at all and I recall in my closet a whole class of clothes or never even occurred toe to look at--short sleeve button-down shirts. Oh well! Nothing is perfect.

Now in Egypt

I am going to try to keep up this blog while I am the Middle East this time.

I arrived this morning at 3 am, which seems to be the de rigueur time to arrive in Cairo. Seems uncivilized to me but who am I to say? After the rush of customs and all, my uncle met me. I ran back in at his request to buy some beer from the duty free shop. We were back at his very nice apartment in central Cairo by 4. I had not seen it before as he and I are not usually in Cairo at the same time.

We had a beer--a first for me in Egypt!- and then heard the morning call for prayer. I love the call to prayer in the Middle East. Some of the men are better than others, but it is beautiful and evocative to me. It is a call to remember there is more to life than work and traffic and it soars across the city 5 times a day in an ancient rhythm.

Ah the cacophony that is Cairo. Sitting in my room I hear a constant stream of car horns. I will take some pictures of traffic later for those of you unfamiliar with Cairo traffic...it's a treat, I promise.

101 in 1001

So I saw this idea on another blog. I don't know if I am going to follow through with it, but it kind of intrigued me, so I thought I'd start out and see where I went with it. The idea is to make a list of 101 things to do in 1001 days. Of course, you sort of have to have a list before you can start the 1001 days...

1) eat yeast free 6 months
2) walk 5 days per week for at least 30 minutes
3) take flax oil for a month, to see if it really works
4) visit my friend Beck in LA
5) go overseas for at least 2 weeks
6) take a private vacation--just me--to somewhere extremely quiet. or a spa.
7) spend 4 days in silence
8) sort the letterpress letters
9) letterpress a postcard for christmas or valentine's day
10) apply to 8 art shows
11) make and frame at least 20 pieces of artwork
12) finish a sari quilt for myself
13)

manager minutes

Were a lovely way to introduce each member of the group and give them literally a minute to say the highlight of their year professionally and personally, if desired. New managers spoke passionately about their plans and beliefs, or accomplishments; returning managers shared various things they were proud of from the last year. Format was up to the manager: we had singing, a letter from one alien to another, a duet poem, and dancing, along with straight reporting. Everyone was called on randomly. The purpose was to give everyone their moment in the sun, and spark conversation. Managers who received PD Dough had an extra minute to talk about their project.

ae pdi day 2--morning

We started the day at the restored Fargo Theatre, which houses a fabulous restored Mighty Wurlitzer organ. A gentleman who is involved in making and fixing these organs treated us to a concert--rising from below the stage on a lift as he played to display an organ with 4 tiers of keyboard and at least 50 buttons--and information about the organ. The executive director then told us about the theatre, which had a varied history but is currently thriving and recently built a second, smaller theatre in an adjacent building so they could both have movies and other arts programming.

After Sarah's keynote (more on that later), we went to Trollwood, a new arts school campus on the Minnesota side of the border. The gorgeous amphitheatre served as the venue for a ground session with the artist Spirit that included call and response singing and movement in the fresh, warm air. During it we looked at the woods and saw deer and other wildlife. We concluded the morning with more Manager Minutes (more on those later, too!).

ae pdi eve reception

The reception started out with creative time to decoupage "reliquaries" for the seeds we had brought. This also turned into great networking time--creating, chatting and drinking wine. The reliquaries are old cans which have half of one side folded back. Using modge podge and the wide variety of materials, they are decorated into beautiful cans for seeds. This is part of a larger public art project which will be ongoing for the next year.

Next we were fortunate to hear the Full Circle Drummers (Native American group from the Circle of Nations school) play and sing.The circle included a woman singer and a very engaging one year-old boy who participated by exploring the drum sticks and clinging to daddy's knee during the singing. A great example of participation and inclusion of kids from a very young age.

Jan, the director of the ND Council on the Arts, gave us a lovely welcome.

Dinner included a very interesting carmel dessert which had overhardened and resulted in hilarious creativity as everyone tried to taste it! Some problem-solving included: submerging in hot coffee, abandonment, hammering with a knife, and attempting to break it with teeth!

arts education pdi day 1

Day 1 started with a new managers orientation and moved to art making and dinner. These notes fron Diana Green, Alabama:

New Managers Orientation
Began with an overview from Nancy Daugherty, Carmen Boston and Sarah Cunningham concerning the NEA-NASAA partnership. It included history of the current structure for professional development, emphasizing that ours is the only group in the state arts agency world that receives extra funds for professional development. The advisory committee allows us to take ownership of the design of that work.

Sarah explained the partnership grant process that each state goes through every three years and informed everyone of the opportunity to hear the review process in DC. It is a tiered review process which allows review of the education section by a panel of peers before the application goes to the panel of record (made up mostly of EDs, DDs and board members) which makes final recommendations. It is an important opportunity to inform EDs of the importance of education programming.

Mentors and new managers spent some time talking to each other - eploring each others programs and possible questions. Some of the questions included:

• how to communicate to rural communities


• how to demystify the grant process for schools


• finding time to develop an IPDP


• how to use the listserv

More later!

St. Louis

St. Louis is so green, and not so hot and muggy this time of year. I am enjoying the relative humidity and green leafyness of it all. Iris are out in full bloom...mine are barely up at home.

My father has a "new" house--that is, it's been built for 2 years but he has only lived in it since January. I hadn't seen it before, but it is directly behind the monster house he had before. The new one is more beautiful and better laid out--not so overwhelmingly large. The old one had a great room which practically echoed; this one has the same idea but on a much smaller scale.

So far, a very cultural weekend. Fantastic symphony (St Louis Symphony Orchestra doing Beethoven's 9th), the Met's HD feed of La Cenerentola (otherwise known as Cinderella) and two art museums. St Louis Art Museum had a Ming Dynasty show; St Louis University Art Museum had a show of artwork from the Tsars of Russia and a show about Marcel Duchamp and his interest in chess. Apparently he was big into chess, and the world tournament for chess is in St. L this week.

We've also done quite a lot of cooking. I did most of the baking, fun fun. I learned to make konifa, a traditional Egyptian dessert, and made goreeba, one of my all time favorite cookies. They spread a bit more than they should of, but otherwise are perfect. The konifa turned out to die for. I will have to make that at home.

Hoping to see SB, my oldest friend in the world, this week. I haven't seen her or talked to her much in a long time. Our paths have gone very different directions. She is an orthodox Jew, which is not particularly an issue, but has changed her life quite a bit. Anyway, for whatever reason, we don't keep in close touch, but I do love to see her.

On another note, why does my space bar make a squeaky noise? This is a new computer.

So I added my blog feed to FB. Maybe that will force me to keep up with it a little more.

breathing

First, answers to some questions:
When the call to prayer happens there is a definite drop in the noise level, and much loud music suddenly gets turned off. The whole country doesn't go silent, but I wish it did--what a wonderful relaxing moment that would be. It is probably most noticeable 3 times/day--the midday prayer, the mid-afternoon prayer and the sundown prayer. The other two are before sunrise and after sundown, when most people are already home.

Weather: Hot? not really. Perfect really--warm during the day, cold at night. It is actually warmer outside than in for the most part.

I have been mostly taking it slowly while I have been here partly because of my back and partly just because if feels good to do so. This meant I also needed to scale back what I thought I could do, and that has been fine too.

Yesterday I came into Irbid with Nazrene (a girl) and stayed overnight with dar Abu Ra'ed. It was almost a relief to get there because it felt like the most comfortable place yet since I have been there. This family is one of my favorites and the one who provided the most support and love while I was here. There were three families who I was very close to, but this one did the best job of accepting me as I was, without expecting me to change or adjust for them. They were also the only one to openly welcome Jesse when he came to visit. Their oldest son was one of my closest friends while I was here. He's in Germany now, and will be gone at least 7 more years because of a situation with the military. There's nine kids altogether ranging from ages 37 to 15. 3 boys, 6 girls. They have a nice apartment in Irbid. They used to live in Malka pretty close to me. When 3 of their kids started university, they moved to town to cut down on commuter time.

Buildings and houses are mostly concrete block, no insulation. There are windows in every room, usually. Floors are tiled with rugs laid over them. By no means are the floors warm, even with rugs on them. Central heat is very rare--the usual heat source is a "soba" which is a propane fired heater that is relatively ineffective and quite smelly. The concrete holds the cold so that it is usually colder inside than out, and it also holds heat in the summer, although it is better in the summer than winter. Usually there is one room which is formally furnished with couches and chairs and it is used mostly for guests, but not always. Then whatever rooms are leftover get fersche--floor cushions, which also serve as beds. Sheets are rarely used--you sleep on a blanket with more blankets on top. People sleep anywhere they like, and are used to sleeping with a lot of noise, and light.

This morning Om Ra'ed woke up before the sunrise call to prayer and read Koran in concert with the mullah at the mosque close by. Then there was prayers, and then she stayed up singing Koran for quite awhile after that. I think they have become more religious in the last few years, although their kids appear to be leaning the other direction, interestingly. Their youngest son has just decided not to pray for some reason, which is upsetting them quite a bit. My guess is that it is one of the few rebellion options open to him and that he'll go back to it later. He has a similiar serious bent like his older brother.

Two nights ago I went with A-K to Abu Schwarib's house (Father of Mustache). He is called that because of a very large, long bushy mustache that he sports. He's a very funny guy, and his wife is lovely. However, between him, A-K and another man, they were smoking so much I thought I was going to suffocate for lack of air! They must've smoked about 10 each in 1.5 hours. Finally I went outside to fill my lungs with real air and then I really couldn't stand it when I went back in. They do not like to open windows in the evening either because it makes the house cold (of course). Something I do not understand is this: the women all know that smoking is bad for them and their kids, as well as for the men, and they will say so, but they do NOTHING to stop it. I don't know if they feel they can't say no, or what. The men are more interested in their addiction than in the health of their families, selfish bunch.

Earlier that day I spent the afternoon with dar Abu Thayyer. This was an interesting experience. Their two girls, who used to be sweet and friendly, have gotten so religious that they aren't really willing to be friendly. It is very odd. The oldest is engaged now, and her father gave her a lecture on being immodest with her fiance while I was there--immodest in this case, for a girl who covers her face, means sitting next to him and talking to him. Basically he's saying it is inappropriate to use the engagement time to get to know the guy and she should wait until she is married. I had to bite my tongue because I wasn't going to argue with him but I really wanted to hit him over the head. His wife just had another baby and it is obvious that she is not healing quickly--9 kids, pretty much only 1-2 years between then, takes a toll on one's body. The boys in the family are more free, but hampered by a dislike of school which means that they won't go to university and probably won't go far. The oldest, Thayyer, was kind enough to walk me up to Om Mazen's house which I appreciated because I don't really like the area where they live.

It is olive season right now, and many people are out picking olives, and taking them to get pressed for oil. The women are putting up bottles of olives for family use. This isn't the best year for olives as it hasn't rained enough the last two years.

My back is better, but not healed. It is very stiff. The stretches help, when I can do them (it is not really appropriate because there is little privacy, and it is immodest to do many of the particular stretches which help the section where the pain is coming from). The medication continues to take the edge off and not much more. If I could sit less it would help, but there is this thing against people standing here. Obviously one can't be comfortable unless one is sitting, or something. It is mostly an issue when bending, or getting up or down.

My brain's gone to sleep, so I think I am going to go outside and walk for awhile. It just happened again--call to prayer, music went off abruptly. *smile*

Jordan day 3

Hello...

I had the opportunity to come to Irbid today so I thought I would after doing nothing but travel yesterday. It was too early to go visit, and I came with Nazrene, who wanted me to come see something. Right now she's in class for computers of some sort, so I will meet her in a bit.

The 'aser call to prayer just began and there was a sudden cessation of sound in the cafe where I am--the music went off quite abruptly! It'll be back in a moment or two, as soon as the call is over. I love the sound of it and also the silence.

I can't tell if my back is improved or not. I am on some sort of medicine I got from the pharmacy for sports injuries which has a muscle relaxant and a pain killer in it. It takes the edge off, but I can still feel it pretty strongly. Today I did a bunch of stretches to try to help it go away quicker. It feels like a muscle spasm, like I had about 4 years ago, but not as bad at that time. The worst is the transitions between standing and sitting or lying. Walking is fine. The constant ache just makes me tired and a little irritable, but I am going to do my best to overcome that.

The bus trip yesterday from Amman to Malka was challenging because of the ache and the need to move slowly, but I managed it and got to Om Talha's house fairly early in the day. I spent the rest of it visiting with her and some others and going for a walk.

Several people have asked about security, and how people see Americans. So far I have observed no evidence of anti-Americanism in either Egypt or Jordan, but that doesn't mean it isn't there. I'm just not seeing anything. In Egypt, the security is obviously very important to them in the sense that they have installed metal detectors everywhere, going into every monument, and there are tourist police EVERYWHERE. Relatively as ubiquitous as the sand on the street. However, one has the sense going through them of going through the motions as no one was stopped when the detector went off. Major hotels have security as well--my father stayed in the fancy ones in Cairo, and they had metal detectors and were searching bags both by hand and by xray. They seemed much more serious about it than the police at the monuments.

Traffic in Cairo was the worst I have ever seen it. It was so smoggy the entire time we were there that it looked like a heavy fog over the city. I suppose in the states it would be one of those places where they'd issue warnings not to go out, not that it helps to stay in if you open the windows.

oh! have to go. I am late.

Egypt to Jordan

hello!

I am sorry to say, this is not going to be the email I had hoped. My back has decided to..to..I don't know, but it is very painful and it hurts most when sitting so this will be short. It feels rather like the spasm I had a couple of years ago in Minnesota, but it isn't as bad, thank the powers that be!!! I don't know what I'd do if I was incapacitated like that here, especially since I haven't made it to Malka yet.

I made it to Amman safely today about 6 PM. Since it had been dark for an hour at that point, I decided to find myself a hotel and just stay here tonight. It is very hard to get buses at night in Jordan in my experience and I didn't want to end up in Irbid late and having to figure out what next. I will go in the morning. Amman is just as I remembered it except that they are building a new bridge connecting the fancy section of town (US embassy area) with the more businesse-y section and so the roads are torn up in places. I am looking forward to going to Malka, but hoping I will make it as I feel best standing or lying, and of course, I have a backpack to carry.....

When last I wrote we were in Luxor. Since then we visited a number of gorgeous temples and went to Edfu and Aswan and Abu Simbel in Upper (southern) Egypt. The trip was very relaxing on the cruise boat, with a lot of time to sit and look at the banks slide by, people fishing and farming and even swimming, and animals. We had a excellent, very knowledgeable guide who was invaluable since there is absolutely no interpretative signage available! I learned a lot about history, temples and how to read the signs on the wall and know who is who in the drawings. The temples are really as fabulous as everyone says they are and I encourage everyone to go. We saw, let's see...Karnak, which is really a complex, the Luxor Temple nearby it, the Valley of the Kings (three tombs: Thutmoses III, and two Ramses tombs), then went to Edfu to the temple of Horus, then to Kom Ombo, then the Abu Simbel which are temples by Ramses II for Horus and Hathor, and in Aswan to Philae as well as the site of the oblisks and the dam. It is a lot to take in and a lot of history. Most of the temples were built over a number of kings, who added/changed at will. Some of them had fallen down by Greek times and were then rebuilt by the Greeks who kept the original structure, mostly, but changed the images to include themselves. Mostly they were trying to gain legitimacy for themselves by connecting their reigns to the old gods of Egypt. Truly fascinating.

Abu Simbel is only 40 KM from Sudan and it seems they have a very smooth system of flying people in and out the same day, with about 2 hours to see the temples. That only works if you aren't planning to stay and really look at everything because there just isn't time. The temples are located right on Lake Nasser, the one created by the Aswan High Dam, and were moved there from the original location which would now be submerged. This has to have been a herculean task because those statues are ENORMOUS and massive. Many of these things weighed thousands of tons. The temples are gorgeous, of course, and the site is also lovely looking over the lake.

Philae was probably the prettiest site wise--situated on an island in the Nile. It was also moved from its original island to one not far away because of the original Aswan dam. Regardless, the UN went to some trouble to make sure it is very similar to the old spot and to reconstruct it exactly. All in all, the UN moved 12 temples to save them when the dam was created.

We then spent 3 very rushed days in Cairo, two of them shopping and one visiting family and friends. We went to lunch with my great uncle and his kids. They grew up in Germany and are very westernized. I particularly like Leila. The rest of the family is quite religious so it was interesting to watch the interaction. It was also interesting to watch my father interact with them, and other family members we went to see. In two cases, we were there 15 -30 minutes--a lot of effort for very little in my mind. His decision. All in all, Egypt was wonderful.

So there's the update. I stayed longer than I intended, but ah well. I am going to go to the hotel and sleep so I can get up early and go off to Malka. I hope my back is going to be all right.

greetings from Luxor!!

It is hot and lovely here. I did a bad packing job for heat, although I am working with it. My choices make more sense for Cairo and Jordan, but so it goes. We arrived in Luxor yesterday after getting up at 3 AM to make the plane and went to the Valley of the Kings, Valley of the Queens and then to Karnak and Luxor Temples and to the Karnak light and sound show. Needless to say, by 10 PM we were all practically dead, and I nearly fell asleep at one point sitting on a rock in Karnak while the guide told us about it! He was very interesting and knowledgeable, so I learned a lot. We went into three tombs, all of which were lovely. The first was Thutmose III who had walls very much like the ones in the Quest for Immortality exhibit if you remember that. We had to climb up a very steep stair case and then down an even steeper one to get in and it was STIFLING hot inside, but still fabulous enough to make it all worth it. Plus, when we came out, Luxor's 70+ felt cool and nice. :-). We then went into the tombs of two of the Ramses (there were a lot of Ramses Pharaohs) which were also both wonderful and neither as much work either. We did not go into King Tut's because most everything is not there now as it is the US for the big exhibit.

The cruise leaves Luxor today so we are looking forward to some lazy time on the boat as we do not get to Edfu until tomorrow.

Cairo was as I remembered it but more so in every way. Huge, crazy drivers, dirty--oh my, so dirty!--fascinating, cheaper (unless your are buying gold, and then it is more expensive because gold is high right now) and so fun. We did just a modicum of shopping on Saturday and I have much more to do. We started with all the things that needed time to accomplish like jewelery and tailors and so on. I swear my father comes here more for the tailor (who is ridiculously cheap) than anything else.

getting ready

I am going to the Middle East on Friday. It is fun to write words like that in a blase manner, I must say! Because really, it is an amazing thing to just pick up one day and go off to Egypt and Jordan, which is what I am going to do on Friday.

I just got off the phone with a friend from Jordan who I was calling to make sure she had gotten my email, would be there, and that I could stay with her. Jordanians, lovely people, tend to be short on communications of this type. I was fairly sure I am going to be fine, and will have a surfeit of places to stay, but then again you never can tell these things. She tells me that there is no reason whatsoever to stay in Amman and come up the day after, so I suppose I'll save myself the trouble and money and do it that way. She gave me directions *laugh* which I remember, although boy! I can tell I have not been speaking arabic, because when she went off in a hurry, I was lost. But it will come back to me. Maybe I'll manage after all to listen to those CDs I got to refresh my memory. Maybe I'll go buy a CD player so I can take them with me.

It is cold today, and all week--bitter, icy cold, but no snow. Cold enough to not want to go outside at all if possible, forever. It is nice to have a cat to curl up with. Which reminds me, great news, he is off insulin!! My poor kitty has been very unhappily getting two injections per day, but the vet has pronounced him able to go off insulin as long as he stays on the special food. That is a relief.

So check back; I am going to post here whenever I get the chance from overseas. I am sure the first time will be from a fancy 1st class lounge in some airport. My father keeps reminding me that I am to use them.

low battery, got to go.

male minds--or, rather, one male mind

Excuse me while I bitch for a few moments.

I am obviously unable to comprehend some male minds. I never thought this of myself, seeing as I have many close male friends, but it appears to be true. Why would a heterosexual man, best friend and confidant, apparently uninterested in a romantic relationship, make a point of kissing the female friend, on the mouth, every night? Just once. A peck type kiss. I would be perfectly happy with the hug, and hell of less perturbed. Maybe it means nothing. It must mean nothing, since it goes no further, and one might say he's not the touchy-feely type. Even though this action seems completely out of character for this male person, given the background. *shakes head, rolls eyes*

I can't believe it is Sunday. Since I joined the Search (for a new minister) Committee at church, which is a year long commitment, and we decided to meet on Sunday morning prior to Church, weekends have not felt like weekends. I mean, the Search Committee stuff is work! Interesting, even fun, but still work, and a regular commitment on sunday. Today we ran the service for the church, which actually went very well in spite of the rather dry subject matter (the search process and timeline). However, enough people walked up to me and said it was a good service, so it must have been--you know, validation through popular acclaim.

By the by, I make the best pudding. It is so easy! You, too, can have the best pudding! I don't know why anyone uses the boxed stuff. The new Joy of Cooking has these very simple, luscious puddings with cornstarch which take about 10 minutes to make. Chocolately! Vanilla-y! Yummy!

The school year is about to start, and since my worklife rather focuses around the school year, it seems like the new year, instead of January which is midway. So, here are my resolutions:
1) make art every week (set aside a planned time and don't let anything disturb it, even travelling!). I am thinking like two hours on Monday night, or something like that.
2) Cook my own dinners, and lunches, more frequently--based on last year, twice a week would be more frequent, but I'd like to aim for 5/week.
3) Walk every day, or ride my bike more than just to work and back. Or swim. Something. exercise regularly, that's my point.
4) write every day. go back to the evening journal, and the morning pages. try writing poetry again.

(I know you are supposed to do these things in 3s, but I prefer 4s) I keep making these resolutions, keeping them for awhile, and then breaking them. I'm trying to get my male friend, the confusing one, to do something similar so we can keep each other in line. At least 1 and 2.